Everest Base Camp Trek takes you to the foot of the world’s highest peak, Mt. Everest (8,848 m) and this is my personal experience. In this trek you can see the breath taking views of 4 of the 6 highest peaks in the world – Mt. Everest (8,848m), Mt. Lhotse (8,516 m), Mt. Makalu (8,470 m) and Mt. Choyu (8,201 m).
“If a guy like me, who had not done any treks before completed this trek successfully, then you can do it.”Vijay Thapa (Software Developer)
In this blog, I am sharing my detail day to day experience of Everest Base Camp Trek with the route map we’ve followed.
- Facts of Everest Base Camp Trek
- Route to Everest Base Camp:
- Everest Base Camp Trek Virtual Tour
- Day to Day Everest Base Camp Trek Detail Itinerary
- Day 1 (Kathmandu – Andheri)
- Day 2 (Andheri – Chhyongma HadiKhola, Lukla)
- Day 3 (Chhyongma Hadikhola, Lukla – Phakding)
- Day 4 (Phakding – Namche)
- Day 5 (Rest Day, Namche Bazaar – Everest View Hotel – Namche Bazaar)
- Day 6 (Namche – Tengboche)
- Day 7 (Tengboche – Dingboche)
- Day 8 (Rest Day at Dingboche, Hiked to the top of the Hill)
- Day 9 (Dingboche – Lobuche)
- Day 10 (Lobuche – Gorakshep – Everest Base Camp – Gorak Shep)
- Day 11 (Gorakshep – Pheriche)
- Day 12 (Pheriche – Namchey)
- Day 13 (Namche – Lukla)
- Day 14 (Lukla – Manthali – Kathmandu)
- Highlights of Everest Base Camp Trek in 1 Minute
- 1. Domestic Flights and Transport Cost
- 2. Nepal Visa Costs
- 3. Trekking Permits
- 4. Travel Insurance
- 5. Food, Snacks and Water
- 6. Accommodation
- 7. Guide and Porters
- 8. Trekking Equipments
- 9. Miscellaneous Costs
Facts of Everest Base Camp Trek
Everest Base Camp Elevation: 5,554 M (max)
EBC Trek Duration: 13 – 15 Days
EBC Trek Difficulty: Hard
Route to Everest Base Camp:
To Lukla via Bus:
Kathmandu – Okhaldhunga – Salleri – Andheri: Approx. 17 Hrs Bus Ride
Andheri – Surke – Lukla: Approx. 15 Hrs Walk
To Lukla via Bus & Flight:
Kathmandu – Manthali: Approx. 4 Hours Bus Ride
Manthali – Lukla : Approx. 15 Mins Flight
Now, Everest Base Camp Trek Route:
Kathmandu – Lukla – Phakding – Namche – Tengboche – Dingboche – Lobuche – Gorakshep – Everest Base Camp – Pheriche – Namche – Lukla – Kathmandu
Everest Base Camp Trek Virtual Tour
Click Here to Download Everest Base Camp Trek Map
Day to Day Everest Base Camp Trek Detail Itinerary
If you’re flying to Lukla then you can directly go to Day 3.
Day 1 and Day 2 is just for those who will be taking the road ways.
The trip was organized by Gurkha Adventures. In our group, there were 11 foreigners, 2 guides, 6 porters and I was with the guides as an IT guy.
Our guests and senior guide were flying to Lukla, but we could not get the flight tickets (During trekking season, only 1 Nepali in a tourist group gets a ticket because tourist pays more than Nepali.).
So we had to start 2 days earlier than our guest. Me with one assistant guide and a Kitchen Staff took the road ways.
Here, In Day 1 and Day 2, I’m going to share my road trip to Lukla Experience.
Day 1 (Kathmandu – Andheri)
Bus Ride: 17 Hrs Approx.
Route: Chabahil (Kathmandu) – Banepa – Dhulikhel – Khurkot – Baleni – Gwaltar – Baseri – Ghurmi – Mane Bhyanjyang – Ketuke – Salleri – Andheri
The date is 19th October, 2019. I woke up at around 4:30 in the morning and did my morning routine (i.e. Pooping, brushing teeth and washing face).
The bags were packed on the previous day, so I went to vehicle point in Thamel as planned. I reached there at 5:30 A.M. and caught the vehicle (i.e. 4×4 Tata Sumo). And from there we officially started our road trip to Lukla.
The vehicle had to collect other passengers as well so went to different places.
At 6:00 A.M. we reached Chabahill (Kathmandu), which is the place where you can get the vehicle/bus to Salleri.
From here, the vehicle will take you up to Salleri, and from there you have to take other local Jeeps to reach Andheri.
Finally, the vehicle left Chabahill at around 6:00 A.M. and continued our journey. Now, we’re leaving the Kathmandu City.
Ah ha Moment: Leaving Kathmandu, Breathing the fresh air
As we passed Bhaktapur and Sanga Area, the environment got better. The air was clean and less polluted, you could see the rice fields and farms, hills and forests nearby.
Moving ahead, the views and scenes got better. At around 7:00 A.M. we reached to Dhulikhel which was one of the most famous places to see the mountain ranges.
From here, we took a right turn towards Sindhuli which would take us to our destination.
After another 1 hour ride, we finally stopped for breakfast at Bhakundey Besi. Here we had Aaloo (boiled and fried potato), Chana (soaked and fried Gram) and Anda (Boiled Eggs). And the price for these three things was 100 Nepali Rupees per person.
Scenic View of Mountain ranges, Clean Koshi River, Green Rice fields and beautiful haystacks awed me
After breakfast, we continued our journey. The road was good (black topped) but narrow and curved. Koshi River was on the left side of the road and hill on the right.
But you can see beautiful scenery if you could get a window seat and on the river side. The beautiful mountain ranges, clean white water river, hills, rice fields and haystacks will make your road trip pleasing.
At around 12:00 P.M., we reached Ghurmi where we had our Lunch. And for lunch we had Nepali Khana (Daal – Lentil, Bhat – Rice, Achaar – Pickle and Tarkari – Veg Curry) with Chicken Gravy.
The food was really great, don’t know if it was our hunger or the food itself. But it’s really difficult to find food of such a taste even in Kathmandu. And for this tasty food we paid 250 Nepali Rupees per person.
After filling our empty stomach, we resumed our journey. The road was narrow (difficult to pass two buses), steep and graveled (not black topped/pitched). Sometimes, we even had to go through the river due to under constructed bridges (which was really scary).
After riding for about 1 hour on such bad roads, we finally got the better roads. Now, it was black topped although it’s narrow, steep and curved.
Reached Salleri but need to find another vehicle, Fingers Crossed
After passing cities like Mane Bhanjyang and Ketuke, we reached Salleri at around 5:00 P.M. in the evening. It’s the last place for our vehicle.
So, our driver helped us to get another local vehicle to Andheri. Luckily we found a vehicle which would take us there (if we hadn’t found a vehicle we had to stay there). But there’s a problem, the new driver said that the road is being maintained and it’s blocked on the way. So, he would take to half way and we’ll have to go on other vehicle from there. And also promised that he would help to get the vehicle on the other side.
We agreed to do that and continued our travel from Salleri at around 5:30 P.M. The sun was already gone and it’s getting dark.
Worst road I have ever traveled
As we left Salleri and climbed up, the road started to get worse. To be honest there’s no road, it’s like riding over a dried river which is muddy and had large stones in between.
It felt like riding with an off road racer or a bumpy roller coaster. It’d be fun if it was just for a couple of minutes or an hour. But we had to ride on such roads for around 4-5 hours.
Though I’ve traveled on many off roads in Nepal, it’s probably the worst road I’ve ever traveled and will ever travel in my entire life.
While we’re on the vehicle, we prayed for our safety and promised that we’ll either take a flight or walk if we have to return this same way or if we come here next time.
Though the road was really worse, hats off to the drivers who drove us safely and make it to the destination.
At around 8:00 P.M., we reached Dada Gaun, the place where the road was blocked. We walked for a while and then took another vehicle from there.
Don’t know what to eat and where to sleep
We hit the road but we had to find a place to sleep in Andheri. For us, our driver tried to contact hotels, but the network was not so good, so it’s worthless.
At last, the driver offered his house for us to stay that night but said he could not contact his wife due to a network problem. So, we might not get proper food and have to sleep with what we could get to eat.
After 3 hours, we reached his house, he woke up his wife and asked her to cook noodles with sukuti (dried meat). So, we had that as our dinner and the driver showed us our room.
After having our noodle soup we paid for the food, bus fare and room before we went to the room. Because we’re planning to start our next days journey as early as possible, and we did not want to wake them up early.
It was a long and tiresome day for all of us, so as soon as we ate and paid, we went to our rooms and slept at around 12:00 A.M.
Day 2 (Andheri – Chhyongma HadiKhola, Lukla)
Max. Altitude: 2,860 Meters
Trail Difficulty: Hard
Walking Time: 15 Hrs. Approx.
As planned, we woke up early in the morning at 5:00 A.M. And did our morning routine, then started walking at 5:15.
First we had to climb down for about 1 hour. Then we crossed the Dudh Koshi river on a suspension bridge. The bridge was very much swinging.
After crossing the river, we climbed a steep hill which took us another 1 hour. And then we reached a village called Jubing. Here, we decided to rest for a while in a tea shop. Washed our face and had a black tea and Coconut Biscuit.
Our breakfast, tea and biscuit energized us and we continued our walk. Now, the path was flat and sometimes steep up.
On the way, we 3 talked about our lives, how we became who we are and how can we make things better. The talk went so deep that we didn’t feel the passage of time.
Chapati (Roti) and fried potato for breakfast at Kharikhola
And it was 8:30 when we reached Khari Khola (2,700 M). This is one of the best places for tourists to take a day off (Rest Day), if you’re taking the road ways.
Here, we decided to have breakfast and went on a beautiful hotel there. We asked for the breakfast available and ordered Chapati (Roti), Fried Potato and tea. While we’re having breakfast, we charge our phone as well.
After our breakfast and half an hour rest, it was time to resume our journey. So, we said goodbye to the owner and tourists staying there, and continued to walk at 9:30.
As we passed the village, we saw the real beauty of the village, beautiful people, farms, herds, kids playing around, etc. We also met many tourists coming back from the Everest Base Camp Trek. And the village looked more beautiful from the top of the hill.
While we’re climbing the hill, we met many people. Some of them were going to work in hotels and some carrying loads on their backs.
Have you ever seen people carrying 120 Kilos on their back up in the mountains?
When we asked what they were carrying and what’s the weight. Some of the young guys said they were carrying meat and it weighs around 120 KG. I was amazed to see people of my age or younger carrying that much load on a steep hill.
Here, I was having difficulty walking with my backpack. Then I felt fortunate to live in the city and studying for a better life. With many thoughts in my mind like, how could we help them to make their life better, we continued our journey.
Could not find a place to have lunch
After crossing many hills and villages, we decided to have lunch as it was already around 12:00 P.M. and we were feeling hungry. We asked in hotels on the way for the food. But they only had food for those we had ordered food a day ago and said we could get food on other village which could be seen from there.
Though the village seem near, the path was so curved that it took us another 1 hour 15 minutes to reach there. The village was called Thamdada. In one of the hotel, we asked for the lunch and they said they can provide food for 3 of us.
While I and guide dai (brother) were waiting there, the other kitchen staff dai was left behind on other villages, so we called him. And he said that he met a friend and was talking with him. And said he will be there for lunch.
After half an hour he came and the food was also ready. So, we ate it together. For our lunch we had Daal (lentil), Rice and Pork Curry. The food was really good and the view from there was exciting.
We enjoyed our lunch with the view of mountains, hills, rivers and forests. The price for the lunch was 300 Nepali Rupees per person. We thanked the lady for the food, asked for hot water to fill our bottles and continued our walk at 1:15 P.M.
Walking on difficult trail with Himalayan Beast (Chockey)
Now we had to walk on a flat surface and we were refueled with our lunch, so it’d not be more difficult for us, we thought. But though the path was not so steep, it was a little bit difficult to walk. Because the path was muddy, slippery and stones on the way.
Beside this we also had to be safe from the Donkeys and Chokey passing through. On the way we talked with the people coming and going to everest base camp.
Walking for almost 3 hours, we reached to a village called Surke, where Pasang Lhamu Sherpa (First Nepalese Woman to Climb the summit of Mt. Everest) was born. And we could even see her birth home, but it was in bad condition and left without maintenance.
We took some pictures of the village and the Pasangs house and continued our journey. It was already 5:00 P.M. and started getting dark. So, we were worried as we had to reach Lukla.
Lost: The boys were surprised
So we asked locals how long would it take us to reach Lukla?
Some said around 2 hours, some around 1 hours, the answer was not consistent. So we started walking hurriedly because earlier we reach better for us as we had to find a place to eat and sleep.
After walking for about half an hour we met people returning and asked how long is it to reach Lukla from there. The boys were surprised and replied that the way to Lukla was back and we were on the wrong track.
Now, it’s tiring and we lost our 1 hour time also. Without any alternative, we returned to the right way.
The actual path was vertical up from Surke, but we took the flat surface which was easier instead. In hurry and tiredness, we missed the sign that was showing the way to Lukla.
Silence, pitch black and freezing in the Jungle
From Surke, the path to Lukla was really steep (vertical up) and it was already 6:00 P.M. So hurriedly we continued our walk upwards.
Now, to reach quickly we had to find the shortcuts, so we took the local ways instead of better way for tourists. Because it was shorter though it’s steep.
We walked continually for 1 hour without rest. It was pitch black, no humans or birds, no houses or lights, which was really scary. Fortunately, our guide dai had a head lamp, so with that we continued to walk.
But our other brother (Kitchen brother), was way behind us as he was having difficulty in walking. So we decided to wait for him. We called him and after half an hour he finally found us. He also rested for a while.
While we were climbing up, we found some people coming down, so we asked how long would it take for us to reach Lukla. And they said it might take another 1.5 – 2 hours.
After hearing that we decided to stay that night on a village nearby and reach Lukla early in the morning. And according to the returning people we could find a village after half an hour walk.
Let’s find place to stay the night
So we continued our journey, half an hour passed but there was no sign of any village. Finally, after walking another 15 minute we heard the voices of people and lights on the house, and walked hurriedly.
We reached the village and asked if they had any place for us to live, but unfortunately we were told that there’s no place to live in that village but we could get hotel to live in nearby village by the river which was 15 – 20 minutes walk from there. So we continued to walk without any delay.
After half an hour walk we started hearing the sound of the river. After crossing the river, we asked about the food and accommodation on the first hotel we saw.
Kind owner served us hot drinks, corn and dinner
And finally, we were welcomed and offered tea and coffee. We got a place to stay a night. We took our backpack to our room and stayed in dining hall which was warm than outside.
By the owner we’re offered to have steamed corn as well which was sweet and good for us as we were tired and hungry. We also had a couple of rounds of tea. And found that the place was called Haadi Khola (originally Chhyongma) and we could reach Lukla in about half an hour from there.
After half an hour we were served dinner. Here, we got to eat Daal (lentil), Bhat (Rice) and Chicken Curry. The food was too good.
After the food, we went to bed as we were tired after walking for almost 15 hours. As soon as we made ourselves comfortable and warm, we fell asleep quickly.
Here, we paid 500 Nepali Rupees per person for Dinner and Bed.
Day 3 (Chhyongma Hadikhola, Lukla – Phakding)
Max Altitude: 2,610 Meters
Trail Difficulty: Easy
Walking Time: 5 – 6 Hrs.
Today we had to reach Lukla early in the morning and receive our guests. So, we woke up early at around 5:45 and got ready. When we reached the dining room to exit the hotel, the owner was already awoke and offered us a cup of tea to all of us.
After having tea and filling our water bottles with hot water we said goodbye to her and continued our walk towards Lukla at 6:20 A.M. After walking uphill for about half an hour, we reached Paradise Hotel, Lukla.
Received Guests and Officially Started Everest Base Camp Trek
Our guests were supposed to land at Lukla Airport at around 7:00 A.M. So, our assistant guide rushed towards the airport and we waited at the hotel and looked after our backpacks. While waiting, we had a hot cup of coffee.
Finally, guests arrived at the hotel at around 7:30 A.M. Then we had breakfast there. In our breakfast, I had toast, omelette and a cup of black tea.
After breakfast, our guide called the porters and distributed the guests load among them. Then we started walking at 8:45.
Organic fruit on the way was too good
Phakding was our today’s destination which was at a lower altitude than Lukla. The path was flat some times and downhill, but not too steep.
On the way we could see beautiful Rhododendron (Laliguras) forests, small villages, farms, hills, stupas and Tibetan Mantras inscribed on stones. Besides this, locals were also selling local organic fruits like carrots, pears, tomatoes and apples, outside of their houses.
Me and our guide dai had pears whereas our guests preferred carrots. The fruit was really sweet and tastier.
We also met lots of people and Chockey (Yak like animal) carrying weights on their backs which was the primary means of transportation to carry goods.
Phakding: Our first stop on Everest Base Camp Trek
After walking for about 3.5 hours, we reached our first rest point, Trekkers Lodge at Phakding, at 12:05 P.M.
Here, we rested for a while and got ready for lunch. At first, we served juice to the guests, and then food was served.
For lunch, Potato chips (French Fries) and Macaroni with Cheese was served to the guests. After the guest had their lunch, it’s our time to eat (2:00 P.M.).
So we sat on another table and ordered Nepali Khana. In our lunch, we got Daal (lentil gravy), Bhaat (Rice) and Chicken Curry, which was really delicious.
After lunch, we charge our phone and connected free wifi provided by the hotel. Our guests went to their rooms to rest. And our guides also went to their rooms.
But I stayed in the dining room and surfed the internet while charging my phone. There, I also talked with hotels owner and other trek guides. Then, in the evening I went to explore the village.
Exploring Phakding, Surprised to see pubs and bars here
As I walked a little above from the hotel, I saw beautiful cafes, pubs and even snooker house. And I was amazed to see those things in such places, up in the Himalayas, but at the same time I was happy too.
As I walked a little far from those city looking things, now I could see beautiful house with a green fields, a suspension bridge over a clean and fresh white water river, Dudh Koshi. I crossed the river and saw beautiful hotels on the other side, saw yak like animals, Chockey.
Since it’s getting dark, I returned from there and went to the hotel.
Now, in the dining room, the heating system was on and was warmer than outside. All the guests were there, having fun. Some playing cards, some having beers, talking with each other, planning for the next day, etc.
At 6:00 P.M. our guests were served dinner. Now our guests were getting what they ordered (the order was taking while having lunch). Whereas we had Nepali Khana with Chicken.
After having dinner and staying there for a while, everyone went to their room. And I also went to my room and slept at 8:00 P.M.
Day 4 (Phakding – Namche)
Max Altitude: 3,440 Meters
Trail Difficulty: Moderate
Walking Time: 7 – 8 Hrs.
After a good rest at Phakding, we woke up at 6:30 and had tea. Then in a while guest started to come in Dining room. And breakfast was served based on their order (the order was done earlier in the day). We also had a nepali breakfast which was toast and omelette.
After breakfast we started our walk at 7:50. Our today’s destination was to reach Namche (Pronounced as Namchey) Bazaar. The walk was not so difficult, it was flat and slightly uphill. We passed alpine forest covered with Rhododendron and Pines, following the Dudh Koshi River.
Lunch at Monjo
At 10:45, we reached Monjo after several hours of walking. Monjo was a small village with a couple of tea-houses and hotels. We were having lunch here at Top Hill Restaurant.
First we served guests with tea, coffee and juice. After that lunch was served. For lunch they got french fries (Potato chips) and Spaghetti.
Note: For guest Lunch is fixed like Chips & Spaghetti, or Chips & Macaroni with Cheese. But the dinner and breakfast was based on their orders.
While guests were having lunch in the dining room, we had nepali lunch in the kitchen. Here, we had Daal (lentil gravy), Bhaat (Rice), Veg Curry and Chicken Curry.
Filling our tummies gave us the energy to move forward. So we resumed our walk at 12:00 P.M. At first the path was flat and downhill passing through the villages and forests. Sometimes we had to stop and let the Chockeys pass.
Note: During such times always stay on the safe side (i.e. hillside not on the edge side).
Two suspension bridges crossing over the Dudh Koshi River
Now, after several hours of walking, the path was getting tougher and steeper than before. We had to climb stairs which was tiresome. We took several breaks on the way and had snacks (cookies and chocolates).
How would you feel when you are on a place which you had seen on social media post and was amazing?
I had the same feeling when I reached this place. It had two suspension bridges crossing the same river (Dudh Koshi River) at a different height. The lower bridge was an older one which is not used these days. And the new one was at a higher height.
We rested for a while and crossed that river through the suspension bridge and it was way too high from the river which might be scary to some. But we enjoyed the view from there and moved a head.
Peek a Peak of Everest
Now, Climbing the hill was really tiring. We took many breaks and climbed the hill passing through the Rhododendron forests. On the way we even got to see varieties of birds and if the weather is clear, you can even see the top of Everest.
Almost on the top of the hill, you will find a checkpost where you’ll need to show your permits and give the name list, which was done by our guides. And we continued our journey. Finally, we reached to Namche Bazaar after walking for around 4 hours from Monjo (Lunch Place).
Thamel of Everest Region, Namchey Bazaar
It was already 4:00 P.M., so we served tea to the guests and ourselves. Then took the orders for dinner and then the guests went to their room. And I went to roam around Namche Bazaar.
The city was really beautiful, it was like Thamel (popular place in Kathmandu) of Everest. You could see cafes, bakeries, department stores/supermarket, and even pubs. You could literally find anything you would in a major city, though it was high up in the mountain and the only way of transportation was either by humans or donkeys.
But the prices are higher than in city areas and it’s obvious due to bad difficulty in transportation.
Namche Bazar is also called “The gateway to Everest” because it is the main stop for climbing Mt. Everest and Gokyo.
It’s also a small, colorful shopping mall where you can buy items from Tibetan artifacts to trekking and climbing equipments you might need on your trip.
Yippee! Hot Shower Available
After roaming around the city for a while, I returned to the hotel, had a hot shower (NPR 500 – 1000 per person) and kept myself warm.
The dining room was really warm, so everyone came down and was crowded but beautiful as all of them were enjoying themselves. At 6:30, we served dinner to our guests. They enjoyed their food and stayed up little bit longer their playing games.
And at around 8:00, we had our Nepali dinner i.e. Daal (lentil gravy), Bhaat (Rice) and Chicken Curry.
Note: Guests eats first and all the nepali guides eat together. And usually they eat Nepali Khana whereas the guests eat from the menu.
After having dinner, we stayed there for a while drinking tea and talking with the hotel owner and other guides. And went to bed at 9:00 P.M. As we were tired we fell asleep as soon as we laid on bed.
Day 5 (Rest Day, Namche Bazaar – Everest View Hotel – Namche Bazaar)
Max Altitude: 3,960 Meters
Trail Difficulty: Easy
Walking Time: 4 – 5 Hrs.
Today is a day of rest, but actually it’s not. Though we’re not going to another place, we have to climb or go to a higher altitude and return to the hotel. It is for acclimatization i.e. adaptation with the higher altitude.
So, we woke up at 6:00 A.M. but the plan to go and see the Everest early in the morning was cancelled due to bad weather. And we stayed in a hotel and had coffee there.
Visiting Hotel Everest View, Highest placed hotel in the world
I had a couple of cups of tea and hot water and talked with guide brothers. And at 8:30 we planned to climb up, visit the Everest Museum and also visit Everest View Hotel which was at an altitude of 3,960 Meters (13,000 ft).
Opened in 1971, Hotel Everest View has been listed in the Guinness Book of World Records (2004) as the Highest Placed Hotel in the world.
After walking up the hill for about 45 minutes, we reached the Everest Museum. Outside the museum lies the statue of Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and if the weather is clear, you can see the Everest from there.
Beautiful view and information from Everest Museum
But unfortunately, we didn’t see the Everest but the the view of down hill, forest and river from there was really mesmerizing.
And to enter the museum you have to buy tickets. And inside the museum you can see the pictures and information about the mountain ranges, plants and animals that can be found there.
After roaming around there for about half an hour, we climbed down and started climbing up towards the Hotel Everest View.
The weather was gloomy, covered with fog and was chilly. The hill was really steep, so we climbed slowly and took several breaks.
Everest Waste Management Project
On the way we found an under construction house, and upon asking, we found out that it was being built by a foreigner who has been living in Namche for about 4 years. And he was running a campaign on managing the waste of Everest region.
All the trash bins seen on the way from Lukla to Everest were built by his organization. And the trash were categorized into 3 groups plastic, metal and glass. Later those trash were collected in Namche and the people returning (i.e. guide and tourists) can volunteer by carrying small bags of trash with them and drop them in Lukla Airport.
It minimizes the transport costs. And later the trash were sent to Kathmandu via flight which will be later recycled.
The idea was really amazing. And with the promise of helping him we continued our journey. Now, it was starting to shower from the sky and the lack of sun due to heavy fog was decreasing the temperature and making colder.
Bad weather at Hotel Everest View
At around 11:30 A.M. we reached to the Hotel Everest View and planned to stay there for half an hour. Here, you can find almost everything a fancy restaurants offer. Like varieties of coffees, bakeries, lunch, etc.
And if the weather is clear you could see the mountain ranges and Mt. Everest. But we were not that fortunate and couldn’t see the everest from there.
Anyway, we spent quality time there, drinking black coffee and then around 12:00 P.M. we got ready to climb down.
As it was showering, everyone got prepared with rain gear and we continued our walk down the hill. We were climbing quickly because the quantity of rain was increasing and we did not want to get beaten by the rain and catch cold.
Walking in the Rain
But unfortunately, almost near Namche, it started to rain heavily, so with rain gear (waterproof jackets/trousers and umbrella) we reached the hotel as quickly as possible.
We changed our clothes and made ourselves comfortable. And then lunch was served to everyone at 1:30 P.M.
In our lunch we had the regular nepali khana i.e. Daal (lentil gravy), Bhaat (Rice), Chicken Curry and potato chips.
Since it was raining outside, we stayed inside the hotel. Our guests went to their rooms and rested. I read a couple of chapters of books. Here, I was reading Tribes by Seth Godin.
In the evening we roamed around the city for a while and then came back to the hotel. At 7:00 P.M. dinner was served to the guests. They got as per their order whereas, we ate nepali khana. Today we ate Rice, Lentil Gravy and Mutton Curry.
We stayed in dining room for some time talking with each other and sharing our experiences. And at around 9:30 we went to our rooms and slept.
Day 6 (Namche – Tengboche)
Max Altitude: 3,867 Meters
Trail Difficulty: (Flat, Steep Climb Down, sloppy climb up, Vertical Up to Tengboche)
Walking Time: 5 – 6 Hrs.
Today we woke up at 6:30 A.M. in the morning. It was too cold outside as it rained yesterday and snowed at night. The first thing I did was to go to the toilet before everyone wakes up (to avoid the queue). And then brush my teeth and wash face with icy water. Then I went to the dining hall.
While I drank a couple of cups of black coffee and hot water, our guests started to show up in the dining hall. After everyone came, tea and breakfast was served as per their order (done earlier night). And then we also had our breakfast (The time was 7:30 A.M.).
Towards Tengbochey: Cold and Foggy way
After having breakfast we got ready to move on. So, we left the hotel at 9:00 A.M. and started walking towards our next destination i.e. Tengboche (Pronounced as Tengbochey).
At first, we had to climb the Namche hill. Then flat and little bit sloppy. It was cold and hills were covered in fog. We could see the small bushes and pine forests in the hills. Also the small spinach like plants in red and yellow colors were beautiful.
While we were walking towards Tengboche, we surprisingly saw couple of Danphe (Lophophorus), national bird of Nepal, down the hill. It was colorful (blue, yellow and red) and was really precious.
On the way, we also met a nicely suited gentleman resting on top of the hill. He kept his load of supplies on side and having an apple snack. It looked really beautiful so I asked for his permission to take a photo and captured this beautiful moment.
Beasts carrying loads for humans
We also met lots and lots of Yaks and Chokkeys on the way, carrying supplies and returning. It’s really difficult to transport supplies high in the mountains. Fortunately we have such beautiful and strong creatures who help in transportation.
After walking on flat surface for couple of hours, now the path is steep down. The path was inside the pine and Rhododendron forests and a bit scary. Climbing down the hill took us to the bank of a river having a couple of hotels.
And we were having lunch in one of these hotels. Since, our kitchen staff already reached the place an hour earlier than us, we were welcomed with warm juice and hot water. We thanked him and got ready for lunch.
It was 11:45 when we reached there. Our food was already ready. First we served lunch to our guest. Today it was potato chips and Spaghetti with Cheese.
Then we had our Nepali Khana. Here we got to eat Daal (lentil gravy), Bhaat (Rice), Mutton Gravy (Goat Meat), Veg Curry and Mushroom Pickle.
You might think we eat the same thing everyday. It’s because this food is our national food and we have been eating since our childhood. Beside this, it’s also cheaper than other menu items. And sometimes we are not charged for food and bed when we are with guests. Cool right!
On the lap of Mt. Amadablam
After lunch, we filled our water bottles with hot and warm water and continued our journey at around 12:45 P.M.. First, we crossed a suspension bridge, then started walking through the village. Here, you’ll find a checkpost with military person. And you need to give information here (which is done by guides).
Then we continued to walk sloppy up the hill. After walking on a sloppy path up the hill, passing different religious structure and mantras in tibetan language, the path started to get steep up. And finally, walking up the hill for about an hour, we reached Tengboche.
It was a really beautiful place with many hotels, a beautifully decorated monastery, bakery and on the lap of Mt. Ama Dablam. From here, you could see the 180° view of mountain ranges. And when the weather is clear, you could also see the peak of Mt. Everest.
Waiting for a Prayer to start at Tengbochey Monastery
First, we went to our hotel and then had some coffee and snacks. Our guest ordered their dinner and went to their room. It was just 3:00 P.M. when we reached Tengboche, we planned to go for a short hike (must for acclimatization).
So, our guest came out from their room and first visited the Monastery at 3:30 P.M.. We took them inside the monastery and while they were hanging around there we stayed outside.
Even after a while, they didn’t come, so I went inside and checked. Inside the monastery they were sitting with a hope of getting a chance to see the religious worship by the monks. But I said that the worshipping was already done in the afternoon (as I was informed by the monk earlier) and it’ll only happen in the next day.
They felt disappointed and got up. But I told them that we’re going for a short hike up the hill. Everyone got excited and got ready to climb that small hill.
Hiking to Tengboche hill for Acclimatization
So, after coming out from the monastery, we started climbing up that hill at 4:00 P.M.. The path was not steep but it was cold as the sun was about to set and we were on the lap of Mt. Ama Dablam. After we walked for half an hour, we decided to stay there for a while.
From there, you could see the 270 view of the mountain ranges and Tengboche monastery also looked really beautiful. There, each one of us took photos and enjoyed the view.
After staying there for almost half an hour, we started climbing down the hill. And at 5:30, we reached the hotel and stayed in warm dining hall. We stayed there for a while. Then we decided to roam around the Tengboche.
Munching Choco Lava, Apple Crumble Pie and Brownie
Me and two guide brothers went to the one and only bakery of Tengboche at 6:15 P.M. There I had Choco Lava with black coffee, Man dai (senior guide) had Apple crumble pie with black coffee and Kiran Dai (assistant guide) had brownie with black tea.
The lunch was to be served at 7:00 P.M. So, after having really sweet food, we headed to our hotel. We stayed near the heater for a while and then time to serve lunch to the guests.
Our guide brothers served the dinner from the hotel kitchen to our guests and I enjoyed reading a book on my phone. At that time I was reading “Tribes” by Seth Godin.
After our guests had dinner, we had ours at 8:00 P.M. Today we ate Daal (lentil gravy), Bhaat (Rice), Veg Curry (Potato and Beans curry) and Pork Curry in our dinner. Then we stayed there until our guests left.
Because, all the guides had to sleep on dining hall since all the rooms were full of guests. The owner gave us blankets and pillows and we slept on the seats of the dining hall. As we were tired and had nothing to do, almost all of us fell asleep at 9:30 P.M.
Day 7 (Tengboche – Dingboche)
Max Altitude: 4,410 Meters
Walking Time: 7 – 8 Hrs.
Good Morning from Tengboche. Today I woke up at 6:00 A.M. and then did the morning routine, cleaning up myself. After that, I headed towards the dining room and had a couple of cups of black tea.
Now the guest started to come down in the dining hall. So, our guides served breakfast to them. They their breakfast as per their order which was made yesterday after dinner.
While they were having dinner, I went outside to see the amazing view of the snow-covered mountains. The mountain ranges looked really beautiful with the golden sunlight. I took a couple of pictures from the roof of the hotel and then went back to the dining hall.
At 7:30 we had breakfast. Here we got to eat Chapati and curry which was really good and healthy. Then started walking at 8:15 A.M.
Moving towards Dingbochey through the Laligurans Forest
Here, at first we had to climb down through the Rhododendron (Laligurans) forest and a small village with waterfall. On the right side we had a hill with the green forest whereas Dudh Koshi River was on the left side. After walking for about an hour we had to cross the River through a Suspension bridge.
After we crossed the river, we had a rest for a while. From there, Mt. Ama Dablam looked really beautiful and the path also looked like it was leading there.
From here, we started climbing up the hill. After walking for a couple of hours we reached the place called Somare (4,000 mts.) at 11:45 A.M.. We were having lunch in one of the hotels there.
So, we made ourselves comfortable, went to the bathroom and cleaned ourselves. Then, juice (mango, orange and pineapple flavors) was served by our Kitchen staff brother. We enjoyed the juice and rested for a while.
Chewed a piece of Chicken Curry, Saw blood and Puked
Then the lunch was ready, so our guides served to our guests. Then we headed to the kitchen to have lunch. We were served Nepali Khana (Daal, Bhaat) with chicken curry. We ate our food and washed our hands.
While eating, our senior guide chew a piece of chicken which was not cooked properly, and saw blood from that piece. And it made him vomit. Then he did not eat his food and left on the table. After seeing this, the hotel owner gave him some fruits.
We had our lunch and sun basked for a while and then continued to climb up as we had to reach Dingboche. It was 1:00 P.M. when we started to walk.
We climbed the hill, passed through various religious structures like mane, stupas, tibetan mantras, etc. We also walked through the desert like terrain, saw some green fields, farm lands and horses on those fields as well.
Hotel Yak at Dingboche
After walking for about a couple of hours, we finally reached Hotel Yak at Dingboche (4410 mts.) at around 3:25 P.M. Since our kitchen staff reached there an hour earlier than us, he had prepared hot water and juice for us.
He served everyone a cup of juice and hot water. Our senior guide asked for the room keys with the hotel manager and distributed among our guests. And informed the guests that we were going on a hike for around 1 hour.
So, our guest agreed with the notice and went to their room with the promise to meet in front of the hotel at 4:30 P.M.
Go High, Sleep Low
Going on a hike is really important. When you’re gaining the altitude quickly your body needs to adapt with the environment. This process is called acclimatization. And to acclimate your body, you need to follow “Go high, Sleep low” rule.
This rule means that if you’re about to sleep in 4,000 mts, then you should at least spend a couple of hours on 4,200 mts. Otherwise you’re more likely to get altitude sickness.
That’s the reason for us to go for a hike on every trek.
Now, at 4:30, everyone arrived in front of the hotel, prepared to go for a hike. So, our assistant guide lead the way whereas me and senior guide stayed on last. The path to the hill was not so steep.
Yak Attack, Move on the Safe Side
But the sun was setting and was getting colder. The path was narrow and dusty, suddenly yaks started coming down that way. So we had to move on the hill side and give the way for the yaks to pass.
After the yaks passed, we climbed up. At the top of the hill, there were some stupas. And from here, you can see the top view of Dingboche village and the surrounding mountain ranges. We stayed there for some time, took photos and enjoyed the view.
At 5:15 P.M. we started climbing down the hill. And after half an hour we reached our hotel. We directly headed to our dining room. Now, it’s filled with guests from all over the world. The place was warm (Himalayan heating system was on) and had a cheerful environment.
Now, we get to eat: Nom Nom
After resting for a while, it was time for dinner. So we served dinner to our guest at 7:00 P.M. For dinner they got as per their order.
And we also had our Nepali Khana at around 8:00 P.M. Today we got to eat Daal, Bhaat and Chicken Curry. After dinner, we stayed near the fireplace for a while, talked with other guides. And at around 9:30, everyone started to go to bed.
So we also went to our bed. Today our senior guide and me were sharing the room, whereas our assistant guide and kitchen staff dai shared the other room. After, we went to our rooms, we made ourselves comfortable in our beds and slept.
Day 8 (Rest Day at Dingboche, Hiked to the top of the Hill)
Trail Difficulty: Easy
Walking Time: 2 – 3 Hrs.
After a long and comfortable sleep, I woke up at 6:50 A.M. As, it snowed at night, it was cold and houses were covered in snow. Though it was cold outside, we went to see the view of the hills and village covered in snow.
Then, I did the morning routine and the most courageous thing I did was washing my face with that icy water.
After cleaning up myself, I went to the dining hall where I was served a cup of hot coffee. I drank a couple of cups of coffee and hot water. After a while our guests came in dining room, our guides served them breakfast as per their order.
Then we also had our breakfast at 7:30 A.M.. Today we had noodle soup in our breakfast. After breakfast, we started our hike at 8:15 A.M. to the top of the hill.
Snow on the Trail, Freezing
It was the same path as yesterdays. But we were going higher than yesterdays. The difference was that today the path was totally covered in snow.
Walking for about 45 mins we reached to the yesterdays place and then continued to walk up hill. Now the path was really steep as we had to climb the hill. And there were lots of other people climbing up that hill.
As we climbed the hill slowly and steadily, we started seeing better view of the Dingboche village and surrounding snow capped mountains. After climbing for an hour everyone started getting tired, probably due to high altitude (low oxygen).
Don’t wanna die, Don’t walk alone in the mountains
So, everyone decided to stay there for a while. But I wanted to go higher as it was my first time and may be the last one as well. So I asked our assistant guide to go with me and he agreed. Then I took permission from our senior guide and he also allowed me to go.
(Note: When in the mountains don’t walk alone because high altitude may cause dizziness and sometimes you may fall down on the ground. And if no one sees you, then your death is guaranteed.)
With the permission granted by our senior guide, we two continued to climb up. We climbed that steep hill for another 45 mins and stopped though it was not the top of the hill. The weather was getting worse and we had to return with our guests.
So we decided to stay there for a while and take some photos. Our guide Kiran dai took my photo high up on the hill and I took his. After staying there for about half an hour we decided to climb down.
Now, our guests also started to climb down, so we climbed down quickly. And in around 20 minutes we met them and walked with them down the village.
Collecting Fuel for Heating Hotels
While we were going down, we met a couple of ladies who were collecting yak dung for hotels. (These dung are the source of fuel for room heating system in the mountains).
We reached the hotel at 12:00 P.M. and then everyone was served hot drinks by our kitchen staff. And at 12:30 lunch was served. Today, Our guest got to eat lunch as per their order. But we had the fried rice today.
After lunch, our guests went to their room and later visited the nearby cafes and village. I also stayed there for a while and read a book on my phone. And later in the evening we also decided to roam around the village.
In Search of Pool House in Dingboche
At first I with our kitchen staff went in search of Pool House as I had seen some Pool house on the way. When we reached the place, they only had snooker but I only knew to play Pool so we stayed there for a while watching others play.
Isn’t it cool to see people playing snooker high up in the mountains? (Comment below)
Just imagine the difficulty to transport that snooker board up in the mountain safely. Behind that difficulty lies the comfort they are trying to provide us and promote tourism. (I think they charge NRS 300 per game, And it’s pretty fair compared to their effort).
We spent around half an hour there and returned to our hotel and stayed there for a while. And then our senior guide was also getting bored so asked me to roam around the village. Then again, we visited the village saw the shops. To be honest, you can find anything here from trekking clothes to chocolate bars to sun screens, fruits, etc.
Craving for Mo:Mo in Everest Base Camp Trek
We wanted to eat MoMos, so went asking in bhattis (small tea shops) but unfortunately we were late, they were already sold. So after roaming around the village for a while we returned to our hotel.
Now the dining hall was filled with guests and were playing and enjoying their time. The heating system was also turned on and was warm.
We stayed near the mountain heater. (It’s an Iron furnace/box with an iron pipe in the middle which throws the smoke out of the house. Yak dung is burned in that box and Iron gets heated and makes the room warm).
There, I had a couple of cups of hot water and talked with other guides and listened to their experiences.
At 6:30 P.M., Our guests were served dinner. And then we had our usual Nepali Khana i.e. Rice and Chicken Curry. And then stayed near the heater for a while.
After some time our guests started to go to bed. Then we also went to our rooms and made ourselves warm and comfortable and slept.
Day 9 (Dingboche – Lobuche)
Max Altitude: 4,940 Meters
Walking Time: 6 – 7 Hrs.
I don’t know why, But I woke up at 5:00 in the morning and went to the bathroom. It was freezing outside. As usual I wanted to wash my but with water but the water was so cold that top layer was covered with ice. So I ended up wiping my butt with toilet paper.
Then I returned to our room and slept again in my bed.
After two hours at 7:00 A.M. I woke up and went to brush my teeth. The water was freezing so I did not bother to wash my face with it but brushed my teeth anyhow.
Then I went to the dining hall and had a couple of cups of tea. Then our guests showed up there and breakfast was served as per their order. And we had our Nepali Khaja (breakfast) as usual. We filled our water bottles and camelbak with warm water and got ready to start our today’s journey.
At around 8:00 A.M. we started our journey. Today we had to reach Lobuche (pronounced as Lobuchey).
Walking on a flat surface but covered with snow
We took the same way as yesterday and climbed up to the place where we came the first day. Then from there we had to walk on flat surface instead of climbing up (the way we went for a hike).
Due to heavy snow last night, the surface was completely covered with snow. And without a pair of sunglasses it’s really difficult to see. So we took out our sunglasses and wore it. But one of our porters did not have sunglasses, so our senior guide told us about the importance of wearing sunglasses in the snow.
Wear Sunglasses if you don’t want to get Snow Blindness
He said if we do not wear sunglasses while walking on the snow, we will get blind for the next 24 hours. So everyone must wear sunglasses while walking on the snow.
Unfortunately one of our guests did not put the sunglasses in her day sack. So our guide gave his sunglass to her. She wore it for a while and it did feel comfortable to her so she returned. Then I gave my sunglass to her and she said it was better and wore it.
We continued our journey on a flat surface but when many people walk over the snow it gets compact and becomes slippery. So we have to be careful while walking on snow. On our way we saw some houses and fields but they were closed. They must be the places to herd yaks during summer.
Lunch at Thukla
We took several breaks on the way had snacks (chocolate bars) and our water. And walked for a couple of hours. Now we saw a river and had to cross it through a small metallic bridge. And on the other side of that river was our hotel where we were having lunch.
This place was called Thukla. So we made ourselves comfortable and our kitchen staff served us juice, hot water and tea to all of us. And then lunch was served to our guest. And then we also had our Nepali Lunch i.e. Daal (lentil gravy), Bhaat (Rice) and Chicken Gravy. It was 11:15 A.M. while having our lunch.
At 12:30 P.M., we continued our journey. Now, the path was more steep than earlier. But our lunch was giving us much energy needed to climb the hill. After walking for about one hour we found a flat surface filled with prayer flags and memorial of dead ones (structures built with stones). Some were foreigners and some were Nepali.
We read the messages written on those memorials and took group photos there and continued our journey after taking almost half an hour long break.
Sun Basked for a while in flat grassland
Though the path was steep, we climbed it slowly, steadily and safely. After climbing the top of the hill, the path started getting flat now. It was easier to walk than before. Now we found a flat surface covered with grass.
Here, we took our another break. The warmth of the sun was too good. I even lied down and sun basked for a while. After our break of about 20 mins, we continued to walk.
And at 3:00 P.M., we finally reached our destination Lobuche (4,900 mts.). We went to the dining hall and rested our backpack. And our brother Bishnu (kitchen staff) served us hot water, juice, tea and coffee to all of us.
And our senior guide Maan gave the room keys to our guests. First they gave orders for the dinner and then they went to their room and said they will be in the dining hall at 6:30 P.M. for dinner.
Discussing about the possible ways to make our lives better
So, we stayed in dining hall, drinking tea with our guide brothers. We talked about our lives and plans for the future. I also talked with other guides there.
Now at 6:00 P.M. our guests started to come in the dining hall. And the dinner was served to them at 6:30 P.M. Then we also had our food at 7:00 P.M. Then our guide dai took order for breakfast.
After that we sat near the heating place and drank a couple of cups of tea and talked about the things. And then went to bed at 8:30 P.M. Since there’s almost nothing to do (no tv, no internet), all you can do is sleep.
Okay Good Night! See you tomorrow.
Day 10 (Lobuche – Gorakshep – Everest Base Camp – Gorak Shep)
Max Altitude: 5,364 Meters
Trail Difficulty: Hard
Walking Time: 8 – 9 Hrs.
It was 6:00 A.M. in the morning when I woke up today. Then did the morning routine, going to the toilet, brushing my teeth and getting ready for the day.
Then I went to the dining hall. There I had a couple of cups of coffee. After some time our guests came and they were served breakfast by our guides, Maan Dai and Kiran Dai. Then we also had breakfast. Here our guests had breakfast based on their order whereas we had usual Nepali breakfast i.e. toast and omelette. It was 7:00 when we had our breakfast.
After breakfast, we got ready for our journey as we had to cover longer distance today. We had to first reach Gorakshep and then to Everest Base Camp and return Gorakshep. So, we continued our journey at around 8:00 A.M.
Difficult trail, walk over the rocks covered with snow
We had to climb the hills covered with snow. And the path was really difficult as they were filled with huge rocks that fell from the mountains or brought by landslides. And those rocks were now covered with snow and since lots of people were traveling to and from the way. It has become slippery.
So we had to walk very carefully and steadily. Here, a single mistake can take your life.
Beside the difficult roads, we have now started to feel higher altitude as well. The lack of oxygen can make you dizzy and headache. If you have heavy headache then it’s recommended to return and go to a lower altitude as soon as possible.
Finally after walking on that difficult terrain for a couple of hours, we reached our hotel in Gorakshep (5190 mts.) at 11:00 A.M. We were having lunch here, so we made ourselves comfortable in hotel dining room.
Here, it almost takes 1.5 hours to bring water
And then we were served hot drinks by our Bishnu Dai (Kitchen Staff). And he let me know that he had to walk 45 mins to find the source of water and it took almost 1.5 hours to go and bring clean water to boil and serve us.
He said there’s a source of water nearby but the water smells like pee, so he would rather walk for 1.5 hours and bring us the good water. His words made me think for a while about the hard life up in the mountains.
And the people visiting such areas also understand these things because there will obviously be higher price for everything from water to food and other goodies.
After these discussions with our guides, it’s now time to serve lunch to our guests. So, our guides served lunch and then we also had Nepali Khana at 11:30 A.M.
After lunch we had to go to Everest Base Camp and return. So, we prepared to move at 12:00 Must have clothing is down jacket, waterproof jacket and trousers, sunglasses, gloves, waterproof shoes and poles.
March Towards Everest Base Camp: Aye Aye Captain
After preparing ourselves with proper gear, we left the hotel for a while and moved towards Everest Base Camp.
Due to snow fall you couldn’t see very far. So, we walked closely in a group. Our assistant guide lead the way and me with our senior guide stayed in the last. We gave hands whenever our guests needed. The path was really slippery, narrow and full of rocks. So, we had to be very careful.
After taking care of ourselves and walking that difficult path slowly and steadily, we finally made to the Everest Base Camp (5364 M) at 2:35 P.M. It was really an amazing once in a lifetime moment.
Everyone felt joyous and congratulated on another and then took photos. Here, I became the cameraman for everyone. To take the photos I had to remove gloves which almost froze my hand. He he.
Anyway, we had fun, enjoyed some time there and started to move back as it started to snow heavily.
Heavy Snowfall, No Visibility
With one of the best feelings in our mind and heart we started walking carefully and a little bit quickly. Don’t know where the energy came from but we felt a little bit energized. Maybe it was the happiness of reaching the Everest Base Camp successfully or the rush to reach hotel and stay in warm places enjoying the good food there.
Due to heavy snowfall, the visibility was almost none. We walked together in a group close to each other and safely. And finally reached our hotel at 5:00 in the evening.
Go for a hike, No messing with high altitude
We rested for a while in the hotel, had a couple of cups of tea, took lunch order from our guests. And again planned to climb the nearby hill for acclimatization.
Everyone agreed and moved towards the hill. It was snow covered, and almost none were going there. So we walked slowly and carefully up the hill. We didn’t go very far, around 30 minutes walk and stayed there for another 20 minutes (approx.) and then returned from there.
Now the dining hall was full of guests, talking with each other, sharing the experience, and further plans. We also sat near the fireplace and talked with each other.
Eat Lots, Drink Lots up in the mountains
At 6:30, dinner was served to our guests as per their order. Then they stayed there for a while playing games and then filled the hot water bag and went to their rooms.
We also had our lunch at 7:00 P.M. We ate Nepali Khana, Daal (lentil gravy), Bhaat (Rice) and Chicken curry in our lunch, and stayed there for some time. I drank a couple of cups of hot water. And then asked for a place to sleep.
Owner said that only dormitory was available for us, so we took the keys and went to our rooms. Before going to bed, I washed my feet with warm water borrowed from kitchen. Then we slept on the upper layer bed of dormitory. It was my first experience, sleeping in a dormitory.
As we were very tired due to the long walk, we fell asleep as soon as we hit the made and made ourselves warm and comfortable.
Day 11 (Gorakshep – Pheriche)
Trail Difficulty: Mild
Walking Time: 7 Hrs.
Today, Our first plan was to climb Kalapatthar early in the morning (4:00 A.M.). But I was not sure whether to go as the weather was not so good and I was feeling a little bit of a headache. At last I didn’t go.
But our senior guide and 4 of our guests went to the hill though it was snowing heavily. Unfortunately one of their conditions went bad so they returned from the halfway.
After staying in warm place in hotel and drinking hot foods, she got better.
At around 6:00 A.M. I finally woke up and did the morning routine. And came to the dining hall and then drank a few cups of hot tea.
Slowly, our guests also started to come in the dining hall at around 7:30. And the breakfast was served to our guests. And we also had our Nepali breakfast at around 8:00.
Time to Go Home
Since our mission to reach Everest Base Camp was successfully completed, now our another mission was to go home safely.
From Here, our senior guide Maan Dai had to go to Kathmandu as soon as possible, so he said this information to the group leader. Then he said goodbye to all of us and gave the responsibility of taking our guests safely to me and our assistant guide, and went before us.
Now, at 9:30 we started to climb down and our stop for today was Pheriche. Due to the heavy snow, the path was slippery and the temperature was chilly. After walking for about a couple of hours, we reached Lobuche where we were having lunch.
As usual, our guests were served hot drinks first, then lunch was served. Then we also had our Nepali Khana at 12:20 P.M.
After lunch we continued our journey to Pheriche at 1:00 P.M. Now from Lobuche, first we crossed the river and take the first right turn instead of going straight ahead (path to Dingboche).
Walking on the Valley through the farmlands, river and beautiful village
Now the path was steep down going towards small valley, in the bottom of mountains. The scene was really beautiful. Different mountain ranges could be seen on the top, and in the bottom it was plain. In that plain surface lied a beautiful village, Pheriche.
After climbing down, we started walking on plain land filled with green grass meadows. On the way we could see small houses and yaks grazing on the fields, they even had fields to grow potatoes.
As the village could be seen from the starting point of the flat surface, some of our guests estimated that it would take around 1 hour to reach there. But, after walking for about 3 hours, we finally reached Hotel Pumori at Pheriche (4,200 mts.).
International Hospital at Pheriche
Here, after taking hot drinks one of our decided to go nearby health post as she was not feeling well. She was accompanied by her guardian. So our guide dai showed the way and they went on their own.
Note: Here, the health post in Pheriche has international doctors. And checkup is free till 5:00 in the evening and after that the patient has to pay certain fee for checkup.
And rest of the guest gave their order for dinner and went to their room as our assistant guide Kiran dai gave the keys. After a while, our guests returned from the health post and said that her condition is good and the doctor had given some medicines. And then they went to their rooms. We stayed in the dining hall having hot water and talking with the guide brothers.
200 Rupees to charge Phone and 1,000 Rupees to charge Power bank
We were having our dinner at 6:30 in the evening. So after 6:00 our guests started to come down in the dining hall. They stayed there for a while and some wanted to charge their phone and power banks.
Here, you could charge your phones, but the price to fully charge your phone was 200 Nepali rupees and the price to charge power bank was around 1000 Nepali rupees.
Finally, at around 6:30 our dinner was ready and we served it to our guests. After the dinner they stayed there for a while and played fun games there.
At 7:30, after all the guests in that hotel had dinner, now it’s our (nepali guides) turn to have dinner. Since the dining hall was full of guests, we were called in kitchen to have dinner. There, we were served Daal (lentil gravy), Bhaat (Rice), Mutton Curry (Goat Meat), Spinach and Achaar (pickle).
After dinner, we stayed near the heating place, talked with each other, had a couple of cups of hot water. And around 8:30 P.M., everyone started to go to bed. Then we also went to sleep at 9:00.
And in our bed, as soon as we made ourselves comfortable and warm, we fell asleep.
Day 12 (Pheriche – Namchey)
Trail Difficulty: Mild
Walking Time: 9 – 10 Hrs.
Today I woke up at 6:00 A.M., then did the morning routine and went to the dining hall. Since, our senior guide was not with us, we had a responsibility to take good care of our guests.
So at first we had a couple of cups of coffee and hot water. And then we welcomed our guests in the dining hall.
At 6:30, we served breakfast to our guests, then we also had ours. After breakfast, everyone filled their water bags with warm water and got ready to move.
Long distance to cover today
So, at 7:30, we continued our journey. And today’s journey was a little bit longer as we had to reach Namchey.
At first, the path was flat and slightly slope, down the hill. After walking for a couple of hours we reached the place called Phunki Thenga across the river, down Tengboche at 1:00 P.M..
There we were having our lunch. At first, we served our guests with hot drinks (juice, tea, coffee, etc.) then served lunch. And then we also had our Nepali Khana (Daal, Bhaat, Achaar, Veg Curry and Mutton Curry).
After lunch, everyone filled their water bags with warm water and continued our journey at 1:30 P.M. First, the path was really steep, climbing up the hill. We climbed slowly and firmly through the forest and reached the top.
Explaining about the festival of lights, Tihar
Now, the path got easy as it was flat. On the way we could see the house decorated with lights, group of children singing and dancing in front of houses. Because the second biggest national festival has already started and it was Kukur Tihar.
So, on the way I described about the festival to our guest. We told them the total number of days the festival is celebrated, different animals worshipped and how people of every religion celebrate this festival.
In Nepal, Everyone celebrates every festival
I told them that, though it was the festival of Hindus, children and people in the mountain region who were Buddhists were also celebrating the festival. And it’s the beauty of Nepal, No matter which religion the people are, they celebrate every festival with joy and harmony.
Talking about everyday of the festival, describing the children’s song while playing deusi, etc. we continued our journey. And it felt really proud to share our culture and festival with our guests.
After walking, on that flat, curved, down the hill and through the alpine forest, we finally reached our hotel Comfort Inn at 5:00 P.M. in Namche.
Here, we were welcomed by our hotel owner and hot drinks were served to all of us by our Bishnu Dai (Kitchen Staff). Here, Bishnu dai distributed the room keys among our guests, took the order for dinner and then guests went to their rooms.
Some of them wanted to have a hot shower, so asked about the hot shower with the hotel manager. So, they were told that they have to pay 1000 nepali rupees for the hot shower. They paid and took a shower.
Beautifully decorated Namche Bazaar with lights
Meanwhile I wanted to roam around the Namche Bazaar and see the festive vibes there. And here, every hotels, cafes and pubs were decorated with lights, and a group of children, and even adults were playing deusi (dancing and singing).
After awhile I returned to the hotel. Now, it was warm inside as our heating system was turned on. I sat near the heater and had a couple of cups of hot water. Now, the place was full of guests and our guests also started to came down.
At 7:00 P.M. we served dinner to our guests and we also had our nepali khana set as usual. Then we at near the heater for a while talking to each other. Slowly everyone started to go to bed. Even our assistant guide and kitchen staff.
Learning to Play “Shit Head”
Now, I was there reading my ebook and two of our guests were playing cards. One of them who was group leader invited me to join them. But I told her that I had never played any card games. So she said she would teach me to play.
She taught me the rules and showed the way it’s played. The game was called “Shit Head”. She taught me by playing a couple of games together. Now, I was starting to enjoy the game, so we played a couple of more time before we hit the bed.
At 8:30, I went to my room and they went to theirs. And as soon as I hit the bed I fell asleep due to the tiredness of the day.
Day 13 (Namche – Lukla)
Trail Difficulty: Mild
Walking Time: 8 – 9 Hrs.
Today, I woke up at 6:00 in the morning at did the morning thing. And then went to the dining and had some tea with our Kiran Dai and Bishnu Dai. Slowly everyone came to the dining hall. And we served breakfast to our guests and had for ourselves at 6:20 A.M. Today we had noodles for breakfast.
After breakfast, everyone filled the water bottle with boiled warm water, then started to walk at 8:00 A.M. While we were leaving, we carried the trash with us to Lukla.
At first the path was steep down, then it was flat. As we have already walked to the Everest Base Camp, the path now felt easier. And it was also familiar to all of us.
Me trying to be Extrovert
Our assistant guide lead the way and I stayed at the last. I even talked with a couple of our guests, shared our thoughts and plans and even asked for career suggestions.
We enjoyed our talks, shared our interests and one of our guests even gave hair ribbons to the small girls on the way. She brought those ribbons with her as a gift.
At 1:20 P.M. we stopped at Phakding (our first stop of the trek) where we were having lunch. Before anything, I connected my phone to charge. And our Bishnu dai, served hot drinks to all of us. Then we served lunch to our guest and had nepali khana for us.
And then at 1:40 we again resumed our walk after filling our water bottles. We walked down the hill, climbed a little steep through the forest along with the Dudh Koshi river.
Why were we stopped to play Deusi but not Foreigners?
On the way we (Me and guide dai) were stopped by the young girls playing deusi, asked us to dance and also the money otherwise they won’t let us go. So we paid some money and continued our journey.
Our guests, why they stopped us but not them. And I said that it was part of our culture (festival) and they won’t need to describe anything to us, that might be the reason for stopping us but not them.
And then we continued our walk. On the way we saw many groups dancing and singing as part of the culture, some even danced in western songs. So, it was a beautiful environment due to the festival.
As we were getting close to Lukla, the trail became difficult, we were all tired and the path was steep and vertical up. So we walked slowly but continued to walk.
Felt like Heaven at Paradise Inn
Finally, at 4:30, we entered Lukla. And it felt like heaven as I was starting to imagine the relax I will get tomorrow as I reach home.
We went to the hotel Paradise Inn at lukla, had hot drinks and our Kiran Dai took order for dinner and gave the room keys to our guests. Then everyone went to their rooms.
Since I did not get a chance to take shower at Namche, I wanted to have a hot shower here. So, I asked the hotel owner for the hot shower, she kindly gave me the keys of shower room. So, I went to our room, unpacked the bag and took some clean clothes then went to shower.
First, I went to a nearby shop and bought a bathing soap. Then went to shower room. And took a hot shower. After the shower, I felt really nice, light and so clean and fresh.
End of the Everest Base Camp Trek
Then, I went to the dining hall, the dinner was already started, our guest invited me to sit beside them and order the food. And they were so kind to offer me drink as well. But I did not want to drink, so had my nepali food and clean glass of water.
After dinner, breakfast order was taken by our Kiran dai, and we stayed for a while there. Some of our guests went to bed, but some were enjoying their drinks. So we stayed together.
Other guests were also having fun as it was the last day in the Everest region. In a while, everyone started dancing. We also danced in a Nepali song. Later our guest also danced and enjoyed.
And finally at around 9:00 we went to our rooms and slept the most comfortable and last night at the Everest region.
Day 14 (Lukla – Manthali – Kathmandu)
Flight: 15 Mins
Bus Ride: 3 – 4 Hrs
Excited to go home and get wasted in the comfort of the city life.
Today we woke up early as our assistant guide and kitchen staff to leave early. After handing over the responsibility to take our guests safely to Kathmandu, Guide Dai and Kitchen Staff Dai left Lukla.
But I stayed in bed a little longer. Our flight was scheduled at 7:30 A.M. So I came down to the dining hall at 6:30 A.M. had a cup of tea and waited for our guest to come down.
Bad Luck, Flight Delayed
Finally, everyone gathered at around 6:45 and then breakfast was served to all. While we’re having breakfast, we got an information that the flight was delayed due to the bad weather conditions on the other side (Manthali).
Now, we had to wait till the weather gets cleared. But the vehicle had already reached Manthali to pick us up and take us to Kathmandu. And started to get calls from the driver as the flight was not resumed and he had to wait longer.
Finally, after waiting for 3 hours I got the news that our flight will be at 10:30 A.M. So, we left the hotel at 10:00 and went to Lukla Airport.
Owner of the hotel was waiting for us at the airport and gave us the boarding pass to each one of us. Then weighed our bags and entered the waiting room.
Excited for my First Flight Experience
After waiting for around half an hour, a plane arrived and it was our turn. We were called by the airlines staff and we hurriedly ran towards the plane.
For a Fact, It was my first flight of my life. But unfortunately on one of the most dangerous airports in the world.
We went inside the plane, fastened our seatbelts and waited for the plane to take off. Finally within minutes we were in the air. And the view from the plane was spectacular.
I could see the mountain ranges in the top, then beautiful green hills, long waterfalls on those hills, terrace farms, small villages and a big Dudh Koshi river on the bottom.
Now, Bus ride for another 4 hours
After 15 minutes flight, we landed on Manthali Airport. Then I called our driver and went directly to the location where our micro bus was waiting. There, we loaded our bags on the bus and started our bus ride to Kathmandu at 10:50 A.M.
The whole country was celebrating the second national festival, Tihar. And we could see people with Tika (Colors you put on forehead) and Garland on their neck.
Tihar Celebration made us travel hungry
And we’re still on the way and hungry. On the day we looked for hotels to have lunch but due to the festival, all of them were closed. Fortunately, one of a small hotel was open, so we stopped for a pee break. And again continued our journey.
On this day, every sister worships their brother, puts Tika and Garland on their brothers. And they will not eat anything before this rituals. So, we (me, driver and his friend) had to reach home as early as possible.
But for safety purpose, we went slowly and safely. And at around 2:30 we reached the Hotel in Kathmandu safely. After that, our guests went to their rooms and we went to our sisters to celebrate the festival.
At around 3:00 P.M., I finally met my sister (cousin), and she put Tika, Garland and Dhaka Topi (Nepali Hat) on my head. Now, I can eat the delicious food cooked by her. As I was hungry I started to eat as soon as the worshipping finished.
Highlights of Everest Base Camp Trek in 1 Minute
Things to Remember on Everest Base Camp Trek
- “Eat Lots, Drink Lots”
- Start Early
- Walk on the Safe Side
- Don’t Run
- Stay Together and Follow the Guide
- Hike from the Rest Point
- Stay Awake for at least 6 hours from the Rest Point
Everest Base Camp Trek Packaging List
- Day Sack/Bag (Small: 21L – 35L, Large 40 – 60L)
- Rain Cover for Bag
- Duffel Bag (No Wheels or Rigid Frames)
- Fleece Pants
- Fleece/Wool Gloves
- FleeceWool Hats
- Fleece/ Sweater or Jacket
- Headlamp with powerful (good quality) batteries
- Trekking Shoes
- Pants/Trousers for Trekking (Convertible,Fast Dry and Light weight)
- Trekking Socks (Wool of Synthetic)
- Insulated Jacket
- Full Sleeve Shirts (Synthetic and Light Weight)
- Rain Coat/Jacket (Waterproof, Lightweight, Breathable and with Hoods)
- Rain Pants (Lightweight, Waterproof and Breathable)
- Sleeping Bag (1° – 4°, Lightweight and Compressible)
- Polarized Sunglasses
- Sun Block Cream and Lip Balm
- Sun Hat
- Water Bottle (Wide-Mouth Vacuum Water Bottle and a Camelbak)
- Trekking Poles
- Chocolate Bars and Drinks
- Toiletries (Toothpaste,Toothbrush, Hand Sanitizer, Wipes (Dry and Wet), Shower Gel, )
- Personal Medical Kit
- Electrical Adapter Plug
- Passport (Photocopies as well)
- Airline/Bus Tickets
- Tims (Guide keeps it)
- Permit (Guide Keeps it)
Other Recommended Things
- Casual Clothes for City Areas (Lightweight and easily washable)
- Casual Shoes to explore city areas like Kathmandu
- Camera and Accessories
Everest Base Camp Trek Cost Breakdown
1. Domestic Flights and Transport Cost
Flight to Lukla can cost around $150 per person for international tourists (one way). The flight will only allow 10 kgs of luggage. If you have more than that, then you can keep them in your hotel in Kathmandu.
Alternative to flight is to take local Jeep (shared), it can cost around $30 per person.
Kathmandu – Salleri: $15 (The bus/jeep ride is about 8hrs.)
Salleri – Andheri: $15 (And another 4-6 hours jeep ride)
You can stay the night at Andheri and you can start walking next day early in the morning from there. It’ll take around 12 hours to reach Lukla.
So you can either start early or stay another night in a village called Khari Khola (2,700 M).
2. Nepal Visa Costs
$30 – $125 (USD) per person
Indian tourist does not need a visa. Other tourists can buy the Nepal visa on arrival at the airport by paying following amounts:
15 Days – 30 USD
30 Days – 50 USD
90 Days – 125 USD
Click here for more current information
3. Trekking Permits
To complete the Everest Base camp trek you need to purchase Two permits.
Khumbu Pasana Lhamu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit: This is collected by Khubu local government and costs NPR 2,000 (around 20 USD). You can buy this permit either at the Lukla airport or Monjo.
Sagarmatha National Park Entrance Permit: This permit costs $30 (USD) including 13% government tax and can be purchased from Kathmandu and Monjo.
4. Travel Insurance
You can purchase travel insurance on your own which can cost around $150 for 30 days. But keep in mind that, the insurance should cover high altitude. It is very important because sometime trekkers need to be evacuated with helicopter.
So it’s better to make sure that the insurance you’re purchasing covers various events like canceled flights, lost baggage, medical expenses and emergency evacuation above 6,000 meters.
5. Food, Snacks and Water
Surprisingly you can find almost every food you normally get in cities like Pizza, Momo, Spaghetti, Fried Rice, etc. but they will be more expensive as you go higher.
The staple food is Dal-Bhat which is rich in Carbs and Protein and costs less than other foods.
The food is expensive as you go higher because everything needs to be either carried (for several days) by humans, yaks or by helicopter. There is no road way from Lukla and Above.
So the total money you may have to spend on food per day per person can be $20 per person, per day. And for snacks extra $5 per day per person.
A liter of water bottle can cost from $1 to $5 (up in the Gorakshep). And you need to drink minimum of 4 liters per day.
On the trekking trail to Everest Base Camp, a single bed can cost from $2 – $7 per person per night.
The rooms on the tea houses are really simple. They include 2 beds (one person on each), pillow, blanket and attached toilet (sometimes shared).
Almost every tea houses have really large dining halls with heating system in the center. Here, the trekkers can relax, play cards, chat, and enjoy the evening.
7. Guide and Porters
Guide charges can range from $20 – $50 per day based on the experience of the guide. A group of 4-6 can share a guide.
Porters charge around $15 – $20 per day.
8. Trekking Equipments
I’ve already listed the equipments you’ll need for Everest base camp trek on packaging list. And it may cost you around $200 – $500 (USD), depending upon the quality and location you purchase.
9. Miscellaneous Costs
This includes the costs like Charging your electronic devices, wifi, hot showers, toilet papers, etc. on your hotels/tea houses.
Buying snacks, tea, coffee, cakes or local food on the way or on resting point.
Tipping the Guides and Porters. It is not compulsory but it’ll make hard working people happy.
5 Best exercises for Everest Base Camp Trek
After this Everest Base Camp Trek, Phil Snowden, fitness trainer with the experience of over a decade says “I was getting overtaken by 60+ year old sherpas, carrying up to 150kg loads on their heads, 5000m above sea level”.
And based on his Everest Base Camp Trek Experience, he has 5 different exercises for you
- The TRX squat:
- Internal/External rotated step down:
- Multi-Planar Bosu Lunges:
- Stepper with Back Pack:
- Single Leg Clock reaches:
Click Here, if you want to know about the exercise in detail or need a guidance in preparing nutrition for Everest Base Camp Trek.
Everest Base Camp Trek FAQ
How long is Everest Base Camp Trek?
Basically, Everest Base Camp (EBC) trek is 12 days trek if you take flight to and from Lukla.
Else, It will take 16-18 days if you take road ways.
Can I do Everest Base Camp Trek?
If a guy like me (a Software Developer), who had not done any treks before, completed this trek successfully. Then you can obviously do it.
Everest Base Camp Trek Route
Kathmandu – Lukla – Phakding – Namche – Tengboche – Dingboche – Lobuche – Gorakshep – Everest Base Camp – Pheriche – Namche – Lukla – Kathmandu
Facts of Everest Base Camp Trek
Maximum Altitude Gain: 5,554 M
Total No. of Days: 12 – 18 Days
Trek Difficulty: Hard
Where should I go next?
Thank you so much for reading my first Trek Experience. Now I’m planning to travel this whole year (2020). So, can you help me to find the best places inside or outside Nepal?